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River Road Beckons With “Valentine’s Passport,” Feb 11

by Laura Ness - HerVineNess on February 8, 2012

VdayPassport

The  Monterey River Road Wine Trail holds their annual Valentine’s Passport day, from 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. this coming Saturday, Feb 11. It’s nigh impossible to hit all 14 stops, so it’s important to have a strategy going in. With a bit of rain forecast this week, hills should be green with early spring growth. Regardless of time of year, the Santa Lucia Highlands are heartwarmingly beautiful, whether covered with the green, gold or red of vines, or the verdant dizziness of early spring.slhboekhills

ScheidWinesStarting to the south, you can visit Scheid in Greenfield, where they plan to pair their syrah with a lamb meatball skewer with veggies, and as Sara Montcrief says, “Lots of chocolate, too!” Then it’s on to Ventana in the Arroyo Seco area, where the featured wine is the 2009 Rubystone (grenache and syrah Rhone-style blend), with Cowboy Butch’s food pairing of sausage made with Ventana grenache. Enjoy music, wine specials, a pre-release of 2009 Ventana tempranillo, and a special “Rubystone Lounge” for club members.

At Paraiso, near Soledad, you’ll be treated to their Souzao port and a chocolate fountain.

At Hahn, also near Soledad, Chef Brian Overhauser has some delicious tapas-style treats in store (free for Hahn club members; all others must have a Valentine’s PasshahnpoursQSport). Pork confit sliders with Royal Rose radicchio and Andy Boy fennel slaw should pair nicely with the silky 2010 Hahn Santa Lucia Highlands pinot noir. The gold medal-winning 2010 Hahn Winery GSM will splendidly set off the mache salad with wild mushroom herbed goat cheese crostini. Yum!! Can’t wait.

Wrath is essentially two tasting rooms in one for the day, as McIntyre will be pouring on the Wrath crushpad. Managing director Claire Marlin says it makes sense because they are practically family anyway. SteveCrop

Steve McIntyre’s company (Monterey Pacific) oversees all our farming and has been a trusted adviser for 20-plus years, so we were happy to share our space. This also makes it nice for Passport participants who can get two wineries in one stop.”

Talented winemaker Sabrine Rodems will be on hand to give both vineyard and winery tours, and Wrath will have two food pairings for visitors to enjoy. Schoch Dairy will have a representative offering cheese samples that go well with Wrath “Ex Anima” chardonnay, and Chef Brian Overhauser of Hahn will prepare a Santa Lucia lamb cassoulet to pair with Wrath “Ex Anima” syrah. This rich and savory dish, which incorporates braised Niman Ranch shoulder of lamb with Daily’s pork belly and Dibrova andouille sausage, will be served along with confit of whole-clove Gilroy garlic atop legumes with herbes de Provence. It should also pair brilliantly with the McIntyre 07 Mission Ranch pinot.sabrinelovessb

Wrath ExVitePinotWrath will offer wines by-the-glass — go for the spicy “Ex Vite” pinot noir — so you can relax on the patio and enjoy the view, if the weather cooperates, which it looks like it will.viewfromwrath

Besides the pinot, McIntyre will be pouring their delectable 2010 chard and the 2009 Santa Lucia Highlands estate pinot, an elegant torch-bearing example of what SLH can truly achieve.

McIntyre’s Sales Director, Cheryl Warner, says you’re in for a special treat, as the multi-talented Steve McIntyre will be making a rare musical appearance. Seriously, folks, you already knew he was a rock star, you just didn’t know on how many levels.

Anthony Pessagno of Pessagno Winery near Gonzales says, “We are showing off our lovely 2008 Sleepy Hollow chardonnay to pair with food from the Babaloo Cuban food truck. Rich dishes to pair perfectly with our round, buttery, Sleepy Hollow chardonnay!” He says to look for discounts on certain wines that day as well. Babaloo was scheduled to be featured this past Tuesday on the Cooking Channel’s “Eat Street” series.

DaveCoventryAt the northern end of the trail, Ray Franscioni’s (below, right) place will be hopping with some new wines, including the brand-new 2010 pinot noir, 09 pinot gris, ‘09 chardonnay and assorted Bordeaux, as winemaker Dave Coventry says, “to break up the monotony!” I’m thinking he means the preponderance of Burgundian beauties at every turn, although I scarcely think such a fine selection could ever be monotonous. rayfran

Don’t miss the pork loin with various seasonings grilled to perfection by Mike and Wendy Franscioni, keeping it “all in the family,” while the music of Guitar Friday makes every day seem like Saturday, especially this one.

Manzoni-2010-Pinot-Noir1At Manzoni, you’ll be treated to the delightful 2010 pinot (a must, at a great price point, too), 2010 pinot gris, 08 chardonnay and the new 09 syrah, which should do the customary Manzoni sausages proud. I’m really looking forward to trying that pinot gris. I’ve been tasting a lot of them from Oregon lately, and they’re missing that edginess that can make it such a grippy beauty.

garret@boekAt Boekenoogen, Garret (left) will pour and his Dad, John and his pals will be firing up the grill to create some fine eats. Among the wines you’ll be tasting are the lively, refreshingly unoaked chardonnay, a sumptuous pinot and darkly delicious Carmel Valley syrah, all great pairs with the fabulous grilled pork (right) and tasty tri-tip appetizers that are sure to make your mouth water. John promises club members a special pour.porkamundo

While you’re there, be sure to buy a bottle or two of that most amazing 2008 Boekenoogen chardonnay. It has some nice bottle age on it now, and is oozing rich, ripe peaches, creamy pineapple, sensational acidity and perky passionfruit. If you haven’t tried it in a while, you’ll be amazed.

From the cellar

Clayhouse 10 Cuvee Blanc_smlThis week’s wine lineup includes a beautiful 2010 Clayhouse Estate Cuvee Blanc, a white Rhone blend that makes a fine 50-50 team of Grenache blanc and viognier. This appealing, well-made wine has a nose of honey, pear blossoms and honeysuckle, unfolding flavors like a spring bouquet, with sassy white currant, a generous dose of ripe melon, a touch of lilac, plump pear and a lush minerality that carries a flood of ripe nectarine, pineapple and creamy coconut across the palate. Oh, so NOT chardonnay: It’s for when you want something rich, not too ripe, but filled with fruit and depth. At $23, well worth a swirl.

Now, let’s go to the dark side, with the 2009 Lee Family Farms Rio Tinto ($16), a red blend made from classic Portuguese WBS_LFF_Rio_Tinto_NVvarieties, including Tinta Roriz (a.k.a. tempranillo), Touriga Nacional, Touriga Francesca and Alvarelhao. The latter is one of the most bizarrely different reds I’ve ever tasted: It reminds me of raspberry wheat beer. Fenestra in Livermore made it for a spell, sourcing it from the same vineyard as this wine, Silvaspoons, in Lodi. This wine has a dark heart, like peering into a cave. There’s a singularity here, with prominent baked plum, dried cherry, black tea and earthy smoked eggplant and soy sauce. It works splendidly with hoisin spareribs.

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Monterey Finds Gold At 2012 S.F. Chronicle Competition

by Laura Ness - HerVineNess on January 24, 2012

Monterey wineries had an impressive showing at the recently completed 2012 SF Chronicle competition, once confirming that this AVA has “Pinot Power” in spades. And let’s not forget all the gorgeous Chardonnay that flows like golden sunshine from the vine-threaded hillsides.

It was Double Gold for Wrath for their 2009 “Fermata” chardonnay, $34.99, Double Gold for Paraiso’s 2009 SLH estate pinot, $24.99, Double Gold for Scheid’s 2009 Estate pinot noir ($32), and Double Gold for Hahn SLH Estate 2010 pinot noir ($34.99).
Proving Winemaker Sabrine Rodems has the golden touch when it comes to pinot, Wrath took Gold for both the 2009 Pommard 4/667 and 115/667 pinots, $34.99.
CRU scored Gold for their Vineyard Montage pinot, $23. Mendelson Vineyard (Napa) took their 2008 Doctor’s vineyard pinot to Double Gold, and the 2009 version to Gold in the $35 to $40 category.
Bernardus took Silver for their SLH pinot in this category, as did Wrath for their 2009 “Ex Vite” pinot, Monterey appellation. This is a fabulously bright wine, overflowing with strawberry and rhubarb pie, with no wood to get in the way. It was fermented in neutral barrels.
Truckee River Wine Company, a humble little spot I’ve enjoyed visiting up by the Truckee [...]

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Annual Highlands Fling Kicks It Up a Notch

by Laura Ness - HerVineNess on May 24, 2011

This one kicked the kilts high in the air and turned up the ambient temperature of the entire affair, even if the weather had a bit of a scowl lurking behind those fleecy clouds that greeted a sold-out crowd May 14 for the fifth annual Highlands Fling.
The celebration of Santa Lucia Highlands vintages took place at the Boekenoogen tasting room near Soledad, where the Boekenoogen family demonstrated flawless hospitality, throwing a party that was overflowing with excellent food, provided by their crack team and Paradise Catering.
The seamless service, attention to detail and excellent top-of-the-line restroom facilities (always worth the rental), made for a warm welcome in every respect. Wineries participating for the first time had to appreciate the level of organization this event conveys. In the future, it would be great to have an option for guests to purchase wine.
Once again, the overall quality of the wines keeps escalating, and the choice of delightful chardonnays and pinots from punchy to powerful to polished, made for a long list of favorites. Having a vast selection of exceptional edibles, including mini sirloin as well as pork [...]

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Fittingly, the First Annual  “Que Syrah” event, a celebration of cool climate Syrahs from the Santa Lucia Highlands, was blessed with plenty of cool weather. Snow, sleet, hail, rain and chilly winds greeted the 200 some attendees at the sold out tasting held at Wrath Winery in Soledad.
Not only did they have some of the finest cool climate Syrahs California has to offer, but they were treated to some truly fine food.  Let’s just say that Chef Brian Overhauser of Hahn Estates knows his way around a bottle of Syrah as well as he knows his way around a kitchen.
The beef cheek sliders with the frisee and radicchio salad (provided by Emily Lyons of Royal Rose Radicchio), was dressed to the nines, and was dead on with the richer styles of Syrah, like Novvy, Paraiso and Antiqus, while the five-spice roast pork belly crostini showed off the peppery prowess of wines like Boekenoogen, Manzoni (Dave Coventry and Mark Manzoni, below left), Big Basin Vineyards and Pelerin (Chris Weideman of Pelerin, below. right).

The sea bass with Syrah reduction and broccoli beurre blanc (insanely good, but a lot of work), was nicely suited to Hahn, Wrath and Morgan’s renderings.
The three rave faves [...]

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