What a difference a few times zones makes!
Landing in Chicago on the way east to visit family, the sky descended like a flock of gray doves, the crackling air heralding an approaching thunderstom. On the edge of the Atlantic, at the beach in Ogonquit, Maine, the weather was crazy-stormy, with much-needed rain, and lots of wind to move the humidity laden air off the beach plums and rose hips that line the walkways to the clam flats. By most accounts, it was not beach weather, but tell that to the three elderly couples scattered like pairs of gulls along the wave-rumpled beach, camped out in striped sand chairs, coffee cups at the ready, caps clamped firmly on against the breeze, novels and the Boston Globe in hand. Doubtless, they greet each day this way, taking in whatever Nature has in store
The light is low, with an amber warmth not found in California. Atlantic waves are layers of lacy ruffles, like a flamenco skirt, creating a rhythm more like castanets than the timpanic drum roar of the Pacific. This is not wine country, although several wine bars beckon.
Here, you pick blueberries and corn instead of strawberries, and the apples are dragging down the trees with the promise of a healthy harvest: they’ve had so much warm sun this summer, unlike us. Fields of corn are dried up from lack of rain, but the ears are rich and sweet.
Grocery stores groan with Crane Lake (2 for $10: better price than home!) and Australian imports galore. But this is beer territory. When you see “Nappa” chardonnay on the menu of a fancy Italian restaurant, you know it’s best to choose the local beverage. How does blueberry beer sound to you? Or maybe cranberry wine?
Ah, but it’s the seafood here that makes the mouth water.There is nothing like clams and oysters fresh from the deep. Ever had a lobster roll? Essentially lobster and a jar of mayo on a hot dog bun.Gotta have that with fries and coleslaw. Turns out a nice gruner veltliner and French sauv blanc are perfect foils for indulging in briny “lobstahs,” as they say on the Cape. That would be Cape Cod, of course.
Speaking of indulgences, have you tried pinotage yet? This quite attention-getting cross of pinot noir and cinsault was created for South Africa: it escalates pinot to a new level. Pinotage takes a gun to your head and holds you hostage. It’s as relentless as a thirteen-year old bent on a tattoo in a questionable location.
There is nothing subtle or delicate about this wine. It is the big sister of pinot noir, the one who can change her own flat tire, the one who would never expect to have the door held open for her. No, this is a big strapping girl who would not hesitate to thumb a ride from a complete stranger or fling her sturdy legs over the back of a motorcycle and head on down the road of life.
The 2008 J Vineyards pinotage delivers a relentless onslaught of flavors that begin with ancho chile, basil and cedar aromas; then it takes your palate on a crazy, wild ride with sensual flavors of crisp red plums, bright red currants, exotic guava and green banana, sundried tomatoes, red licorice and green olives. Truly an amusement park ride for your mouth: great for celebrating the return of summer. Order some, they’ll be happy to send some J your way.
Another great pinotage can be had from Loma Prieta Winery in the Santa Cruz Mountains. This is pretty heady stuff, and they are the only winery in the area to produce this varietal. They recently grafted over all their cabernet and merlot to pinotage, and are planting additional vines as well. Winery owner, Paul Kemp, intends to become the largest domestic producer of the varietal in the US. He’s a very determined guy. He just might do it. They just started a pinotage only club: this might be one club too good to pass up.
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